A Maasai mzungu.. What a novelty.. xD
Our trip to the Maasai Mara!
26.03.2011 - 04.04.2011
26 °C
The three day safari which is organised by changing worlds was highly anticipated, as the other volunteers who had already gone said it was the highlight of their gap year! I have always wanted to do a safari, and finally my time had come! After buying a plethora of snacks for the very long journey, Steph and myself took a matatu to Nairobi (at an ungodly hour of 6am). It was a long, cramped journey which was made considerably easier by Ellie’s iPod. Thank you Ellie!
Once we had arrived in Nairobi we had a bit of a hassle trying to find our driver Richard... This was kind of my fault because I made us get out at the wrong stop! Woops... :p Still it was nice sitting with Steph on the pavement, chatting and watching the Nairobi bustle. Anyway we finally found him and we were reintroduced to the brand new volunteers who had landed in Nairobi a few days ago. I had met both Beth and David on the pre departure course, so it was nice to get chatting again and share our pearls of wisdom on living in Kenya ;p I was also pleasantly surprised by the vehicle which had nice comfortable seats and a lift up roof for the safari! Very fancy.. I felt like royalty
We drove for quite a while into a small town, whose name I can’t recall. It was here that we met up with Karanja, Mary and a few of their friends/relatives. After shaking off a very enthusiastic salesman and sorting out our luggage, we set off again now with a crowded vehicle... There was one young lady who fell asleep for the whole safari, taking up the best spot! Honestly.. :p The journey to the Maasai Mara national park seemed to take for ever... The monotony of the journey only broken by a quick lunch break, a few giraffes and some spectacular scenery! It was close to sundown when we finally arrived at our campsite. The rooms were not good. They were a weird combination of concrete and canvas, but the main problem was not the toilet which wouldn’t flush, nor was it the lack of toilet roll or a toilet door, it was the bugs. There were so many massive critters which were everywhere. They all seemed to have a penchant for my bed too! We quickly set off for an evening drive though, so I didn’t get a chance to enjoy my new accommodation... :p I was so surprised when we entered the park, because we were immediately greeted by a whole host of animals. I think it was a generally agreed that the zebras were especially cool
After a bit we saw a cluster of vehicles around this one area which means that something very interesting is there. Annoyingly though we didn’t go there straight away so when we finally got there the cheetah had hidden itself in the grass. It is pretty much impossible to spot a cheetah if he decides to hide! We were just about to start off again when the heavens opened... It was rain like I have never seen before, and with no warning! Very quickly the dirt tracks were turned into rivers and we couldn’t see more than a few metres. It was then very much to my suprise that we spotted something really amazing! It was the biggest pride of lions Karanja has ever seen, feasting on some poor animal. It was quite a sight with the pouring rain, feral growls accompanied by the sound of tearing meat and thunderclaps. The rain brought some spectacular shots, like a male lion shaking its mane, showering droplets... This was definitely one of the many highlights of the safari drive! At one point we were convinced a massive fight was about to break out as this massive male was prowling around the kill looking hungry. Unfortunately for us he was actually part of the pride, so he joined the feast without incident...
Once we had seen enough (and taken literally hundreds of photos) we headed back to the campsite, a bit bedraggled but exhilarated nevertheless! The food that night was very tasty
I just wish that Nancy cooked those dishes instead of goddamn spaghetti every night!!! :P Our night’s sleep was not quite so brilliant, what with the aforementioned bugs and the generator next door... Still I’m young... I don’t really need sleep... :p The next day after an equally good breakfast we set off on our all day safari drive. It was brilliant and I was surprised how much we saw so early on! I won’t recount every encounter, but here are a few! We ran into buffalo quite early on, and immediately I was taken aback by their obvious size, power and danger! Buffalo are the most dangerous animals in the park, due to their ferocity and size! They look like giant bulls on steroids... who are all in a bad mood! What made me laugh though are the fearless little birds which perch on the buffalo picking off all the ticks. After we drove away Karanja told us how he was chased by a buffalo once, which rammed the vehicle leaving a colossal dent... Thanks for telling us now Karanja... xD We also in that day came crazily close to two elephants! It was kind of my fault because I was egging Richard to drive us closer.. but I wasn’t expecting to get within 3-4 metres of them!!! Very scary indeed, although they paid us absolutely no attention unlike the buffalo which gave me the evils! We also saw a cheetah (finally) which got me excited until the cheetah just decided to take a nap... We saw so many lions as well! Literally everywhere! My favourite (and most scary) encounter was when we came across a mother and her cub napping on a knoll. We got within 1 metre of the mother at eye level too! This turned out to be a bad move because she let out this threatening growl and made to stand up. If she had decided to leap, she would have quite easily taken one of us out... Apparently this was the only time Richard has ever been scared doing a safari... woops! Great photos though
The day ended with us having spotted three out of the big five, having missed out on the rhino and the leopard. We had however snuck across the border into Tanzania quickly, seen a massive croc, saw a load of hippos at the wildebeest migration crossing and a massive lizard about a metre long along with many other things! It was a good day
Before going to the campsite we were taken to a Maasai village where we got a guided tour, danced with the Maasai men and I wore a hat made out of a lions mane! This was such a great experience even if the entrance fee was Ksh1000! The dancing was especially fun, which involved a hypnotic humming punctuated by all the men jumping straight up. When I joined in they all gasped and muttered amongst themselves. Not quite understanding what was happening I was challenged by one man as to who could jump the highest. Apparently I can jump very high because I beat him by quite a margin. The chiefs son then pulled me aside and, shaking my hand, said ‘You are a strong man Joel. You will win many women here..’ xD Maybe I’ll move.. ;p We were also taught to make fire using just sticks! David and myself actually made fire faster then the Maasai men! Who knows, maybe I have Maasai blood in me from some distant ancestors! xD The houses they live in are incredible! They take four months to make out of sticks and dung, and the women have to make them whilst the men hunt. They are tiny and are pretty much pitch black inside. I was here I was told that the boys to move into adulthood by spending 4 years living in the wilderness, where they learn all about surviving using just their surroundings. This all culminates in killing a male lion with only a spear and a knife! Having met many lions I have no idea how they don’t all die... As a trophy they take the mane and make a hat out of it! After all this they are finally allowed back into the village. Seriously mental... Anyway after a tour of their crazily overpriced market we went back to our campsite. We were greeted by Karanja holding a goat (an actual goat this time) ready for slaughter. It was a lot less clean this time, and the poor goat took a while to fully die...
This had something to do with the fact the knife was blunt! Grr.. We watched it being butchered and David and Beth ate raw kidney, like the Maasai men do.... Errrgh! After spotting a weird organ we learned it was the gall bladder. Deciding it was a good idea to play catch with it we started throwing this weird sack of fluid around. Part of the fun was we weren’t sure who it would burst on! xD After a while I threw it at David who in trying to catch it managed to rip a massive hole in his shorts! To put the cherry on top the gall bladder burst leaving him soaked in god knows what! Heehee :D That night was very fun, what with the excellent food and a few Tusker beers from Karanja. Mary tried to sew up David’s shorts, but she was a bit inebriated at the time so they broke soon after. Unfortunately my night was not brilliant, so when we woke up at around 6am for a morning game drive we were all a bit sleep deprived :s We drove for hours that day trying to find something new and finally we were rewarded. I have absolutely no idea how Richard spotted it but we finally saw our rhino in the bushes. Again I urged Richard to get closer, so we inched our way forward to get a closer look. Not before long a whole carmarda of vehicles joined us, causing the rhino to retreat. All the vehicles save us chased after it. Richard, being far cannier, drove around running parallel to the rhino, finally intercepting it in a clearing. It was quite a sight. I was reminded of a massive tank, because the skin of a rhino looks like armour. The power and danger of this beast was unmistakeable. It looked right at us with its mean little eyes and we were all exhilarated and terrified at the same time. Amazing hardly does this justice, but it was amazing! Probably the highlight of the safari :D It was funny as the day progressed we got so used to seeing giraffes, elephants, lions, buffalo and all the other animals, that we became rather blasé about them all. However looking back we saw some amazing things that day. Unfortunately no leopard though...
Oh well there’s always Lake Nakuru national park which is apparently a hotspot for leopards! After all this excitement the journey back home was mind numbingly boring. I got the worst seat as well, which exacerbated by car sickness. It was then with a bit of relief that we reached the small town where Karanja’s car was parked. Here we dropped off Karanja, Mary and their friends and we headed for Lake Naivasha, so David and Beth could do the usual tour. After this and a few more photos we finally headed for Nakuru. By this time it was dark and when we arrived at our respective houses I’m sure I wasn’t the only person to be relieved! Still it was a brilliant experience and I’m very envious of Ellie who gets to do it all again soon with her boyfriend who is coming out! I’ve already told her though that if she sees a leopard I will kill her... ;p
So now to more recent news.. Well David and Beth have settled in nicely. In fact I went swimming with them the other day which was great fun. Annoyingly though the vast majority of Kenyans CAN NOT swim and if you are near their attempts you will get drenched. This was the fate of my lovely book, my magazine, my bag, my clothes... and me. Grrrr... On a different note we were shown round another placement which looks promising. It’s a walk in clinic with plenty of different jobs to do! I would quite like to do some manual labour for them actually, along with David, but that has yet to be finalised. Emily has recovered from her illness, but has passed it on to me
It’s fine though because it’s just a cold. Emily had it bad due to accompanying severe bronchitis, which I hopefully won’t get! Oh and we get new volunteers soon
Kristian, (Emily’s boyfriend) India, (Emily’s friend) and Kelly who I have yet to meet! I’ve spoken to both Kristian and India who both seem very nice, so I can’t wait to extend our little (or large now) family!
Emily, Ellie, myself and Leah all climbed the Meningai crater just yesterday! It was great fun, apart from how we got charged an initial Ksh600 just because we are white. Corruption and racial discrimination are rife in this country. Usually it’s quite easy to ignore or circumvent, but this was outrageous! Eventually with the help of our Kenyan sis Leah, we got the price down to Ksh150. Still 3x the price that a black man would pay, but hey... Karanja was useless in this situation, saying we should just pay the Ksh600. I’m so glad Leah was there to help ![]()
Right that’s about it! I think that 2300 words is about enough! xD
Love you all!
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Posted by chaos24 04.04.2011 15:12 Archived in Kenya Comments (2)





